{
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    "date": "2026-07-28T19:43:29",
    "date_gmt": "2026-07-28T11:43:29",
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    "modified": "2026-07-28T23:52:04",
    "modified_gmt": "2026-07-28T15:52:04",
    "slug": "kits-backup-power",
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    "title": {
        "rendered": "Backup Power Kits for the Home: How to Choose a Complete System in Ukraine"
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        "rendered": "<div class=\"vgblk-rw-wrapper limit-wrapper\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A backup power kit is the simplest honest answer to a Ukrainian winter: one matched package that keeps your home running when the grid drops, instead of a pile of parts you have to make work together. The kit pairs a LiFePO4 battery, which stores the energy, with a hybrid inverter, which runs your home from that energy and switches over the moment the grid fails. The hard part is not finding a kit. It is choosing the right size, because a kit that is too small leaves you in the dark halfway through the evening, and one bought on a single flattering number costs more than it should. This guide explains what a complete kit actually contains, how to size one from your own loads rather than a box rating, the tiers from a router-and-lights setup to a whole house and a small business, and the checklist that separates a kit you can rely on for years from one that disappoints. Genixgreen has manufactured LiFePO4 storage systems in its own factory since 2011 and supplies distributors in 100+ countries, and the aim here is a guide a dealer can hand straight to a customer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The short answer<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A backup power kit is a pre-matched package of a LiFePO4 battery, a hybrid inverter, and the cabling and protection that connect them, chosen and sized as one system rather than bought piece by piece. For a Ukrainian home facing daily multi-hour outages, size the kit from two numbers: the watts you need to run at the same time, which sets the inverter&#8217;s power (kW), and the hours you want to ride through, which sets the battery&#8217;s capacity (kWh). Then confirm the battery and inverter are voltage-matched and talk to each other, that both carry real certification, and that a qualified electrician installs it and files the grid paperwork. Buy the kit as a matched set from one supplier so a single party stands behind the whole system.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What a backup power kit actually contains<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A complete kit is three things working as one, not a battery with some accessories. The first is the battery, which stores energy and is rated in kilowatt-hours (kWh). The second is the hybrid inverter, which converts that stored direct current into the alternating current your home uses, charges the battery from the grid or solar, and switches your home onto battery power within milliseconds when the grid fails. The third is the balance of system: the cabling, the breakers and fuses, the battery-to-inverter communication link, and the enclosure or rack that holds it together safely. A kit sold without that third part is not really a kit; it is a battery and an inverter that someone still has to wire correctly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The two numbers that define every kit: kW and kWh<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The single most useful thing to understand before you buy is the difference between power and energy, because almost every sizing mistake comes from confusing them. Power, measured in kilowatts (kW), is how much you can run at the same time, and it is set by the inverter. Energy, measured in kilowatt-hours (kWh), is how long you can run it, and it is set by the battery. A kit with a large battery but a small inverter can run a few things for a long time; a kit with a large inverter but a small battery can run many things briefly. A good kit balances the two to your home, which is why a kit is chosen as a pair and not as two separate purchases.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Why a matched kit beats assembling the parts yourself<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Buying a matched kit removes three risks that catch people who assemble parts from different sources. First, voltage and communication mismatch: the inverter&#8217;s battery-voltage class has to match the battery&#8217;s (home storage has standardised on 48 V nominal, which for LiFePO4 is 51.2 V), and the two should speak the same closed-loop protocol over CAN or RS485 so the inverter respects the battery&#8217;s real-time charge, discharge, and temperature limits. Second, split accountability: when the battery is from one supplier and the inverter from another, a fault becomes an argument about whose part failed. Third, certification gaps: a matched kit is specified to work as a unit, with the documentation to prove it. The deeper detail on each component lives in our battery buyer&#8217;s guide and our hybrid inverter buyer&#8217;s guide; this page is about choosing them together.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How to size a backup power kit: a method, not a fixed number<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The right kit falls out of your home and your loads, not out of a headline kWh figure. Work through it in order, and you will arrive at a size you can defend.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 1: List the loads that must stay on<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Write down only what genuinely has to run during an outage, because every appliance you add raises both numbers. For most Ukrainian homes the essential list is lighting, a refrigerator, internet (the router and the optical network terminal), phone charging, and the controls and circulation pump of a gas boiler so the heating keeps working. Comfort and convenience loads such as an electric kettle, an oven, an air conditioner, or an instantaneous water heater are heavy, and deciding early whether they are in or out changes the size of the kit dramatically.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 2: Add up the watts (this sets the inverter&#8217;s kW)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Add the running watts of everything from Step 1 that could be on at the same moment. That sum is the minimum continuous power your inverter must deliver, and you should add headroom on top. One number is easy to miss: motors. A refrigerator compressor, a water pump, or a borehole pump draws a large inrush current at the instant it starts, several times its running wattage, so the inverter&#8217;s surge (peak) rating has to cover the startup of your largest motor even though that surge lasts only a few seconds. An inverter sized only to running watts will trip the moment the fridge kicks in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">A worked example, with generic numbers<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Take a typical apartment: LED lighting at around 100 W, a refrigerator running at around 150 W (but surging to perhaps 600 W to 900 W at startup), a router and ONT at around 30 W, phone and laptop charging at around 100 W, and a gas-boiler pump and controls at around 120 W. The simultaneous running total is roughly 500 W, so a continuous rating well under 2 kW covers the steady load, but the inverter still needs the surge headroom to start the fridge. The point of the exercise is not the exact figure; it is that you size from your real list, then confirm the surge rating against your largest motor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 3: Decide your hours of autonomy (this sets the battery&#8217;s kWh)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Multiply the average power your essential loads actually draw over time by the number of hours you want to ride through, and you have the energy you need to deliver. Two cautions keep this honest. First, average draw is lower than the peak: a fridge cycles on and off, lights are not all on at once, so the energy over an evening is far less than the inverter&#8217;s power rating times the hours. Second, and this is where many kits are oversold, usable capacity is less than the nameplate. You do not draw a battery to absolutely empty, and a shallower discharge (a lower depth of discharge, or DoD) prolongs its life, because <a href=\"https:\/\/batteryuniversity.com\/article\/bu-808-how-to-prolong-lithium-based-batteries\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">the smaller the discharge, the longer the battery lasts<\/a>. LiFePO4 lets you use a high share of the nameplate, more than older chemistries, but you should still size on the usable figure, not the label. Decide the hours you need by checking your local outage schedule, which varies by region and season, rather than assuming a fixed number.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Kit tiers: from essentials to a whole house and a business<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Once you have your two numbers, kits fall into recognisable tiers. The capacity figures below are sizing classes, not a price list, and the right tier depends entirely on the load list you built above.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table class=\"has-fixed-layout\"><thead><tr><th>Tier<\/th><th>What it keeps running<\/th><th>Typical capacity class<\/th><th>Best for<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><td>Essentials<\/td><td>Router and ONT, lights, phone charging, a few sockets<\/td><td>Around 5 kWh with a small inverter<\/td><td>Apartments, a minimum lifeline through scheduled outages<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Partial home<\/td><td>The above plus a refrigerator and a gas-boiler pump<\/td><td>Around 5 kWh to 10 kWh with a mid inverter<\/td><td>A flat or a house keeping the core of daily life running<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Whole home<\/td><td>Most circuits, including heavier intermittent loads<\/td><td>Around 10 kWh and up, often expandable<\/td><td>A house that wants near-normal living through long outages<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Business and commercial<\/td><td>Tills, refrigeration, servers, lighting, critical equipment<\/td><td>16 kWh and up, often with larger or stacked inverters<\/td><td>Shops, clinics, offices, and small workshops<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The essentials and partial-home tiers are covered in detail on our home backup kit page, and the business tier on our commercial backup system page. The principle across all of them is the same: a LiFePO4 chemistry for safety and long cycle life, a hybrid inverter so the kit is solar-ready, and a design that can usually be expanded by adding battery capacity later rather than replacing the whole system.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What to check before you buy a kit: a pre-buy checklist<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ask for documentation on every item below. A reputable supplier provides it without hesitation, and the absence of paperwork is itself an answer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The battery and inverter are voltage-matched and talk to each other<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Confirm that the inverter&#8217;s battery-voltage class matches the battery (48 V \/ 51.2 V for most home kits, or a high-voltage class for some larger systems, and the two do not interconnect), and that they share a closed-loop communication protocol over CAN or RS485. Closed-loop communication lets the inverter read the battery&#8217;s real-time state and respect its limits, which both protects the battery and extends its life. This is the single check that most distinguishes a true kit from two parts in one box.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Both parts carry real certification<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Treat documentation as part of the product. The battery should meet <a href=\"https:\/\/webstore.iec.ch\/en\/publication\/64073\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">IEC 62619<\/a>, the safety standard for secondary lithium cells and batteries in industrial and stationary use, and ship under <a href=\"https:\/\/unece.org\/transport\/dangerous-goods\/rev8-files\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">UN 38.3<\/a> transport testing. The inverter should meet <a href=\"https:\/\/www.solarpowerworldonline.com\/2014\/04\/close-inverter-testing\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">IEC 62109<\/a>, the safety standard for power converters in photovoltaic systems. A CE mark is only meaningful with a signed Declaration of Conformity behind it, so request the document, and an independent third-party test mark is good evidence the testing was not pure self-certification.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Efficiency, so you keep the energy you paid for<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A kit loses a little energy every time it charges and discharges, and that loss compounds over thousands of daily cycles. Ask for the inverter&#8217;s weighted efficiency, the <a href=\"https:\/\/pvpmc.sandia.gov\/modeling-guide\/dc-to-ac-conversion\/cec-inverter-test-protocol\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">CEC or EU figure<\/a> that averages across load levels, not the single best-case peak number, because the weighted figure is the honest one to compare. Good grid-interactive inverters exceed 95 percent weighted.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Cold-weather behaviour, because this is Ukraine<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A LiFePO4 battery must not be charged below 0 \u00b0C without integrated heating, because <a href=\"https:\/\/batteryuniversity.com\/article\/bu-410-charging-at-high-and-low-temperatures\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">charging below freezing causes permanent lithium plating<\/a> that degrades the cells. A well-designed kit either includes battery heating or is meant to live in a heated indoor space, and the inverter&#8217;s charge logic respects the cutoff through the closed-loop link. Plan to mount the kit, and especially the battery, in a heated indoor location such as a utility room rather than an unheated garage or outdoors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Installed by a qualified electrician, with the grid paperwork done<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A home backup kit is hardwired into your mains supply and into a critical-loads panel; it is not a plug-in appliance. That work must be carried out by a qualified electrician, both for safety and to meet local electrical rules. There is a second step that is easy to overlook: any inverter that can interact with the grid requires a connection agreement with your local grid operator (the DSO), covering anti-islanding and voltage and frequency behaviour, and your licensed installer files that paperwork. Treat the electrician and the grid filing as part of the purchase, not an afterthought.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Local stock and after-sales inside Ukraine<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A kit you can collect or have delivered quickly, and get serviced locally, is worth more than a marginally cheaper one shipped slowly from abroad with support in another time zone. Genixgreen holds stock in an Odesa-region warehouse for fast supply inside Ukraine, which is the practical difference between a system installed before the next cold snap and one still in transit. If you are weighing a battery kit against a fuel generator on running cost, noise, and maintenance, see our companion guide on <a href=\"\/en\/blog\/battery-vs-diesel-generator-ukraine\/\">battery storage versus a diesel generator<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Battery-only or solar-ready?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A kit can run in two modes, and a hybrid inverter lets you choose later. In its simplest form, a kit charges the battery from the grid whenever power is available and discharges it during an outage, with no solar at all, which is the right starting point for many apartments. Because the inverter is a hybrid, the same kit is solar-ready: you can add panels later and the inverter will charge the battery from the sun, which both shortens recharge time during long outages and lowers your bill. You do not have to decide on solar to buy a useful kit; you only have to choose a hybrid inverter so the option stays open. The full picture of why LiFePO4 is the right chemistry for this duty is in our guide on <a href=\"\/en\/blog\/lifepo4-vs-lead-acid-backup-power\/\">LiFePO4 versus lead-acid for backup power<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How a kit fits the wider backup picture<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A kit is the practical, pre-matched form of the whole-home backup system explained from first principles in our <a href=\"\/en\/blog\/backup-power-system-ukraine\/\">complete guide to backup power systems for Ukraine<\/a>. If you are a dealer choosing which kits to stock and resell, the supplier side of the decision (the six checks, the certifications, the lead time, and the red flags) is covered in our guide on <a href=\"\/en\/blog\/lifepo4-battery-supplier-ukraine\/\">how to choose a LiFePO4 supplier in Ukraine<\/a>. And if your goal is only to keep the internet alive rather than the whole home, a smaller dedicated setup may be enough; that narrower case is its own topic in our writing on backup power for a router. The kit is simply the level at which the battery and the inverter are chosen, sized, and warranted as one system.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The right next step<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Choosing a backup power kit comes down to two numbers and one principle: size the inverter to the watts you run at once, size the battery to the hours you need, and buy them as a matched, certified set from one supplier who installs it properly. To see the matched battery and inverter kits we hold in our Odesa-region warehouse for fast local supply, visit our <a href=\"\/en\/product\/\">product range<\/a>. To go deeper on either half of the system before you choose, read our battery buyer&#8217;s guide and our hybrid inverter buyer&#8217;s guide. And if you are a dealer or installer serving customers across Ukraine, our <a href=\"\/en\/partners\/\">partners page<\/a> explains how to work with us, from single kits to stocked inventory.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Frequently asked questions<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What is a backup power kit?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A backup power kit is a pre-matched package of a LiFePO4 battery, a hybrid inverter, and the cabling and protection that connect them, chosen and sized to work as one system. The battery stores the energy (rated in kWh) and the inverter runs your home from it and switches over within milliseconds when the grid fails (rated in kW). Buying a kit rather than separate parts means the two are voltage-matched, communicate with each other, and are backed by a single supplier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What size backup power kit do I need for a home?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Size it from two numbers. First, add up the running watts of everything that must run at the same time during an outage; that sum, plus surge headroom for your largest motor, sets the inverter&#8217;s power rating in kW. Second, multiply the average power your loads draw by the hours you want to ride through, allowing for usable capacity being less than the nameplate; that sets the battery&#8217;s capacity in kWh. Check your local outage schedule to decide the hours, because it varies by region and season.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Can I run my whole house on a backup kit?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Yes, with a kit sized for it, usually around 10 kWh of battery and up with a larger or expandable inverter. Whole-home backup carries heavier and more intermittent loads, so many homes start with an essentials kit (lights, fridge, internet, boiler pump) and expand later. The right size depends on your load list and how many hours you need.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Should I buy a kit or separate a battery and an inverter?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">For most homes, a matched kit is the safer choice. It removes three risks of assembling parts yourself: voltage and communication mismatch between battery and inverter, split accountability when a fault occurs, and certification gaps. A kit is specified to work as a unit, with documentation to prove it, and one supplier stands behind the whole system.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Do I need solar to use a backup power kit?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">No. A kit can charge its battery from the grid whenever power is available and discharge it during an outage, with no solar at all, which suits many apartments. Because the inverter is a hybrid, the same kit is solar-ready, so you can add panels later to shorten recharge time and lower your bill. Choosing a hybrid inverter keeps the solar option open without forcing the decision now.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Who installs a backup power kit?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A qualified electrician. A kit is hardwired into your mains and into a critical-loads panel, so it is not a plug-in device, and the installation must meet local electrical rules. There is also a grid-connection agreement to file with your local grid operator (the DSO), which your licensed installer handles. Keep the kit, and especially the battery, in a heated indoor space so the battery stays within its safe charging range through the winter.<\/p>\n<\/div><!-- .vgblk-rw-wrapper -->",
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